RECORD Speed Fixer
RECORD is the basic fixer for all SPRINT™ SYSTEMS processes. RECORD works quickly with a favorable pH to fix prints before thiosulfate absorption can reach damaging levels, and promotes thorough washing for permanence.
Convert RECORD Speed Fixer into a hardening fixer for B&W films and prints with RECORD Alum Hardening Converter, packaged separately.
Note: Modern B&W films are generally hardened during manufacture and so do not require alum hardening converter in the fixer.
One liter of concentrate will make 10 liters of print fixer, enough for (600) 8×10 fiber prints or (900) 8×10 resin-coated prints, or 5 liters of film fixer, enough for 150 rolls of film.
How to Mix
Choose the desired working solution from the examples below:
Dilute RECORD Speed Fixer concentrate 2:8 with water. It is good practice to use distilled or deionized water. In the (now rather unlikely) event you need a hardening fixer, then to each liter of diluted fixer add 30ml of RECORD Alum Hardening Converter concentrate.
|200ml||RECORD Speed Fixer Concentrate
|+||30ml||RECORD Alum Hardening Converter Concentrate
|=||1030ml||RECORD Hardening Film Fixer Working Solution
Dilute RECORD Speed Fixer concentrate 1:9 with water.
|100ml||RECORD Speed Fixer Concentrate
|=||1000ml||RECORD Print Fixer Working Solution
Fast Print Fixer
Dilute RECORD Speed Fixer concentrate 2:8 with water.
|200ml||RECORD Speed Fixer Concentrate
|=||1000ml||RECORD Fast Print Fixer Working Solution
Hardening Print Fixer
Dilute RECORD Speed Fixer concentrate 1:9 with water. To each liter of diluted fixer, add 15 ml of RECORD Alum Hardening Converter concentrate. This is used if you need to hot-ferrotype glossy fiber-base prints or if you need maximum gloss on RC glossy prints. You must be sure to use Block Stop Bath before hardening fixer, to provide the correct acid value. Hardening increases with immersion time, but unfortunately so does thiosulfate absorption. For very rapid print fixing with hardening, immerse prints in Hardening Film Fixer working solution for 30 seconds only with constant agitation.
|100ml||RECORD Speed Fixer Concentrate
|+||15ml||RECORD Alum Hardening Converter Concentrate
|=||1015ml||RECORD Hardening Print Fixer Working Solution
How to Use
To fix either B&W films or prints, immerse in working solution for a minimum of 3 minutes. Agitate continuously for the first minute, and for 10-15 seconds for each minute thereafter.
Use non-hardening fixer for normal B&W prints
Prints may be left in non-hardening fixer for at least 10 minutes without bleach damage. To reduce print fixing time, use the Fast Print Fixer working solution for 30 seconds with constant agitation.
Using hardening fixer
Use BLOCK Stop Bath before fixing to provide the correct acid value for hardening.
Resin-coated prints may be hardened in the fixer for a hard gloss finish. Without hardening resin-coated prints will have a soft-gloss finish. Fiber prints should not be hardened except under certain circumstances.
Excessive hardening can make prints brittle and difficult to wash and tone. Correctly timed hardening and washing with ARCHIVE Fixer Remover will ensure best results.
Please consult directions for using RECORD Alum Hardening Converter and ARCHIVE Fixer Remover for more detailed information before using hardening fixer.
RECORD Speed Fixer alone has no objectionable odor. When RECORD Alum Hardening Converter is added, a slight odor is generated by sulfur dioxide vapors.
Capacity & Exhaustion
One liter of RECORD Speed Fixer working solution will process at least (60) 8×10 fiber prints or (90) 8×10 resin-coated prints or the equivalent of (30) rolls of 35mm, 36 exposure film.
The fixing capacity of RECORD Speed Fixer is not affected by addition of RECORD Alum Hardening Converter.
When using QUICK SILVER Print Developer, BLOCK Stop Bath and RECORD Speed Fixer mixed in equal volumes, the lavender color of BLOCK will signal the simultaneous exhaustion of all three solutions.
RECORD Speed Fixer concentrate, stored with up to 25% air in the container, has a shelf life of at least 2 years.
RECORD Speed Fixer working solutions without hardener have the following shelf life:
|Working Solution||Minimum Shelf Life
|Full container||12 months
|Closed container (25% air)||2 months
|Uncovered tray||2 weeks
Working solutions with added Alum Hardening Converter have approximately one-half this shelf life.
There are black specks showing up on my prints?
You may simply have dirt in the water, or you may have a buildup of silver sulfide. Fixer that sits unused for long periods can decompose; this is especially true for fixer that has been mixed as a working solution. As a rule if you want to make clean, archival prints, the fresher the chemistry, the better.
There is something floating in my fixer, what is it?
There are several possibilities, including algal growth and decomposition of the fixer, producing silver sulfide or sulfur. Fixer diluted to working concentration keeps less well than concentrate.
How do I dispose of my used fixer?
Used fixer contains silver , whose discharge is usually regulated. It is also very valuable, so don’t just throw it away! This is particularly relevant for people using “well water” and spaces that use large amounts of fixer like a university. Please contact your local hazardous waste or chemical disposal company for best practices and recommendations for proper disposal. There are systems for the home and darkroom for silver recovery. Please take care of the environment; we would like it to last a bit longer.
There is a white substance accumulating in my fixer?
It may be sulfur, if the fixer is old.
Can I use the record speed fixer for both Films and Prints?
You use the same concentrate, but at different dilutions. Also, film fixer, once used, will contain substances you do not want in your prints. If at all possible, use separate working solutions.
How do I check to see if my fixer is exhausted if I can’t use “Hypo-Check?”
Edwal makes fine products, but Hypo-Check indicates premature exhaustion with Sprint™ RECORD Speed Fixer. Instead, try our fixer test. Put a piece of undeveloped film in a small beaker of fixer working solution (1:9) and stir. If the film’s emulsion does not clear, that indicates the fixer has worked to capacity, and will no longer be effective in removing silver from the film. A new batch of fixer working solution should be made.
How long should I fix my film and paper?
Sprint’s general recommendation for fixing time is a range of 1-3 minutes. Fixing beyond 3 minutes is not recommended. High-speed liquid fixers, such as Sprint RECORD Speed Fixer, will fully fix any standard emulsion within 3 minutes. The general rule of thumb is to fix for twice the minimum clearing time. Try this simple test. Put a piece of undeveloped film in a small beaker of fixer working solution (1:9). Stir, and note the time needed to clear the film of emulsion. Double the resulting time to establish your base fixing time, i.e. 60 seconds to clear = 2 minutes fixing time. When the film clearing time has doubled, it is time to replace the fixer.
My film has a pink/magenta cast. Is it fixed properly?
Some newer tabular-grain films have a different anti-halation backing than traditional emulsions. After normal fixing times, these films may exhibit a colored tinge rather than a neutral tone in the base of the film. This tint does not mean that the film is under fixed. Sprint ARCHIVE Fixer Remover will help remove the coloration. Longer than normal fixing times are not recommended, because they will begin to bleach the image. There are times when you need the maximum possible contrast when printing negatives; in such cases try not to wash out the magenta cast!
Do I fix fiber prints and RC prints differently?
Fixing time for fiber and RC (resin-coated) papers are essentially similar, since the emulsion to be fixed is merely sitting on the top of the paper in both cases. However, extending fixing time with fiber prints allows more fixer to soak into the base of the paper. It is good practice to minimize the fixing time with fiber prints. Fiber prints also have an extended washing time compared to RC prints.
Why is there a tint in my fixer?
With film fixer, it is very common to see some tint from the dyes that are removed from the film, especially from T-max. This coloration is harmless and generally fades away within 24 hours or so. With prints, some papers can also leave some color behind in the tray. If your fixer has become yellow, it has likely been used too much. This tint could also be carry over from the stop bath tray. If enough prints are placed directly in the fix from the stop bath, without allowing some time for the print to drain first, you can get enough stop bath in the tray to add a tint. It is best to drain prints until the stream of liquid dripping from them turns into separate drops.
I have been told your Speed Fixer is non-hazardous and safe for disposal in my septic system. Is it safe to dump your fixer without using hazardous waste removal?
No. Like all other fixers, once used, RECORD Speed Fixer will contain the silver that has been removed from the film or paper that was processed. Residual silver is considered hazardous, and should not be allowed to enter waste treatment systems or ground water. You should check with the appropriate authority in your state to see what the exact requirements are. There are a number of methods that can be employed to keep the silver out of the waste stream. Generally it’s as simple as collecting the spent fixer in a container and having that hauled off for treatment. The cost will vary depending on the volume. We suggest checking with your state Department of Environmental Management to see what the regulations are in your area, they may be able to recommend specific options for disposal in your area. There are ways of recovering the silver yourself.